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Flint and steel
This page discusses a number of devices very similar to or related to a traditional 'flint and steel'. In modern usage the phrase 'flint and steel' can refer to any device used to make a fire by striking or scraping two materials together to make a spark. The terms 'striker' and 'firesteel' are also often used.
Evolution
Usage
Readers of this section are assumed to be familiar with the topics covered on the Fire Lighting page. Using a flint and steel is one of the more difficult methods of lighting a fire, so it is recommended that before attempting to use a flint and steel, have plenty of practice with an easier method, such as with matches; see the Teepee Method as an example. There are two fundamental differences in lighting a fire with a striker compared to with matches. The first is that it is simply much more difficult, and the second is that due to the vigorous action required to used the striker, it is not suitable to assemble a structure before lighting the tinder.
The first stage is to prepare all the material you will burn beforehand. Unlike some other methods, this is not just recommended, but essential, when using a flint and steel. A sizeable amount of good quality tinder and graded kindling must be on hand. The tinder used will need to be very fine and dry (it must be of a very high quality generally, for example shredded tissue paper, see the tinder page for more details).
The second stage is to light the tinder. If possible place the tinder of on a bed of wood spills or sticks to insulate it from the ground. If using an artificial 'striker' type tool, push the 'flint' part into the tinder, and push it down on the ground or spills beneath the tinder to brace it. Then, place the metal 'striker' part on the flint part: it should be horizontal (the part touching the 'flint' should be roughly the same height as where you hold it in your hand) and it should not be flat on the flint or directly perpendicular, try about 30 degrees: the highest edge should be touching the flint, and the lowest edge should be a little distance from it. Finally, whilst constantly pushing the two together firmly, move the striker quickly down the flint to produce sparks. You will need to be quite forceful and many need to quickly repeat the process several times to get the tinder ignited. [Please add the method for traditional flint and steel here if you are able] Once the tinder is burning, it may be helpful to turn it over, to get the flame on the under side. If this possible it will cause most of the tinder to catch light.
The third stage is building the fire up from the lit tinder. [To be extended. Please feel free to continue this section if you are able]]
A ball of fine, dry tinder is placed on a platform of spills.
The small fire is built up until it can easily take large fuel.
See Commercial Firesteels for a list of firesteels that can be bought.
[edit] First Time Advice
Lighting a fire from a flint and steel spark requires a lot of skill. Unlike other methods, where at least warming or charring of the tinder is evident, it is easy to spend a long time practicing the method with no results at all, and no indication of better or worse technique. This short method should enable a first time user to get at least some satisfaction and practice.
The type of flint and steel used is a big factor in how easy it is to get a flame. Use an artificial striker, not natural flint and iron/rocks, at least at first. The larger variety seems to be easyer to use; approximately 9mm diameter.
* Tear up some tissue paper. Even untorn tissue paper is very difficult to light at first.
* Hold the flint so the part in the hand is at the top, and it is almost vertical.
* Push the bottom end of the flint onto the pile of tissue tearings and hold there firmly.
* Using the method detailed above, scrape sparks from the flint.
* Be forceful, and continue vigorously striking sparks.
* Modify your technique to produce the most and largest sparks.
Hopefully you will be able to light the tissue paper on a warmish, still day. Consider doing this indoors in a sink if conditions outside are not suitable - as soon as any flame shows, imediately fill the sink with water, and soak the tissue afterwards even if not succesful, to ensure it is not ignited by a stray spark or ember.
Suggested Practice
Once you have lit tissue paper in still conditions, and want to try something more authentic, Paper Birch Bark gives an excellent tinder that isn't too hard to light for novices with the flint and steel. Lightable materials.
Lightable materials
Maya Dust Pampas Grass Teasel Heads Bike Inner Tube Wood Filings/sawdust Birch bark
See Tinders
Advantages
* Though a striker will wear away, it lasts a very long time
* A striker is small, light and durable
* Using flints and ore bearing rocks from the ground extend the above advantages further
* Failed attempts to light a fire can be re attempted many times
Disadvantages
* Very dry, high quality tinder is nessisary
* This is one of the most difficult firelighting techniques
* It becomes even harder in cold or windy conditions
Evolution
Usage
Readers of this section are assumed to be familiar with the topics covered on the Fire Lighting page. Using a flint and steel is one of the more difficult methods of lighting a fire, so it is recommended that before attempting to use a flint and steel, have plenty of practice with an easier method, such as with matches; see the Teepee Method as an example. There are two fundamental differences in lighting a fire with a striker compared to with matches. The first is that it is simply much more difficult, and the second is that due to the vigorous action required to used the striker, it is not suitable to assemble a structure before lighting the tinder.
The first stage is to prepare all the material you will burn beforehand. Unlike some other methods, this is not just recommended, but essential, when using a flint and steel. A sizeable amount of good quality tinder and graded kindling must be on hand. The tinder used will need to be very fine and dry (it must be of a very high quality generally, for example shredded tissue paper, see the tinder page for more details).
The second stage is to light the tinder. If possible place the tinder of on a bed of wood spills or sticks to insulate it from the ground. If using an artificial 'striker' type tool, push the 'flint' part into the tinder, and push it down on the ground or spills beneath the tinder to brace it. Then, place the metal 'striker' part on the flint part: it should be horizontal (the part touching the 'flint' should be roughly the same height as where you hold it in your hand) and it should not be flat on the flint or directly perpendicular, try about 30 degrees: the highest edge should be touching the flint, and the lowest edge should be a little distance from it. Finally, whilst constantly pushing the two together firmly, move the striker quickly down the flint to produce sparks. You will need to be quite forceful and many need to quickly repeat the process several times to get the tinder ignited. [Please add the method for traditional flint and steel here if you are able] Once the tinder is burning, it may be helpful to turn it over, to get the flame on the under side. If this possible it will cause most of the tinder to catch light.
The third stage is building the fire up from the lit tinder. [To be extended. Please feel free to continue this section if you are able]]
A ball of fine, dry tinder is placed on a platform of spills.
The small fire is built up until it can easily take large fuel.
See Commercial Firesteels for a list of firesteels that can be bought.
[edit] First Time Advice
Lighting a fire from a flint and steel spark requires a lot of skill. Unlike other methods, where at least warming or charring of the tinder is evident, it is easy to spend a long time practicing the method with no results at all, and no indication of better or worse technique. This short method should enable a first time user to get at least some satisfaction and practice.
The type of flint and steel used is a big factor in how easy it is to get a flame. Use an artificial striker, not natural flint and iron/rocks, at least at first. The larger variety seems to be easyer to use; approximately 9mm diameter.
* Tear up some tissue paper. Even untorn tissue paper is very difficult to light at first.
* Hold the flint so the part in the hand is at the top, and it is almost vertical.
* Push the bottom end of the flint onto the pile of tissue tearings and hold there firmly.
* Using the method detailed above, scrape sparks from the flint.
* Be forceful, and continue vigorously striking sparks.
* Modify your technique to produce the most and largest sparks.
Hopefully you will be able to light the tissue paper on a warmish, still day. Consider doing this indoors in a sink if conditions outside are not suitable - as soon as any flame shows, imediately fill the sink with water, and soak the tissue afterwards even if not succesful, to ensure it is not ignited by a stray spark or ember.
Suggested Practice
Once you have lit tissue paper in still conditions, and want to try something more authentic, Paper Birch Bark gives an excellent tinder that isn't too hard to light for novices with the flint and steel. Lightable materials.
Lightable materials
Maya Dust Pampas Grass Teasel Heads Bike Inner Tube Wood Filings/sawdust Birch bark
See Tinders
Advantages
* Though a striker will wear away, it lasts a very long time
* A striker is small, light and durable
* Using flints and ore bearing rocks from the ground extend the above advantages further
* Failed attempts to light a fire can be re attempted many times
Disadvantages
* Very dry, high quality tinder is nessisary
* This is one of the most difficult firelighting techniques
* It becomes even harder in cold or windy conditions
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